Recently I went surfing out in front of where I live. It was Christmas day and the conditions were perfect; santa ana winds, west swell and a tiny crowd. It had been a while since I had surfed out front, what a gas! I love my life. The shot above is the view from my apt. Not on Christmas day, it was shot about a month ago, approx 7am. I have numerous photos of the ocean at this time when the sun is just coming up, needless to say it is a magical moment. I love it all cloudy and moody. The best.
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